Sorry for the long break in posts - we've just been to Pemba Island, just north of Unguja, for about 10 days. No internet there and only spotty cell reception but I promise I haven't fallen off the planet. I'll try to write a post either tonight or in the next day or so before we head south to Jozani Forest.
Baadaye!
Thursday, September 30, 2010
Sunday, September 19, 2010
Siku Huru
Lots of things going on these days - been busy with 5 hours of Swahili a day on top of regular lectures, homestays, and just trying to have a little personal time. I think we would all agree that we are finally starting to feel completely comfortable in our homestays, RIGHT in time for us to travel to Pemba Island and live with new families. Definitely will be missing my kiddos (and my neighbors! - this is me and my buddy Ahmed) but I'm really excited about living with a family in a more rural area.
On another note, we finished up Swahili class and have an exam on Monday morning. No one is thrilled about taking the exam but at least it will mean we are (somewhat) proficient enough in Swahili to concentrate on what we are all here for - coastal ecology and natural resource management.
We've been studying so much that we jumped at the opportunity to spend our first free day in quite some time relaxing on the beach. About half ot the SITers took a boti out to a coral reef about a 45 minute boat ride out of Stone Town to snorkel, and then went on to a sand bar to have a picnic, swim, and hang out. It was the most wonderful day!
We probably looked like freaks to everyone else there, but we had a lot of fun acting like 12 year olds building sand castles, playing games, jumping around (or trying to...see picture fail), and digging Becky's host brother into a big hole.
Now - time to study! Ninatumaini exami ni rahisi!
Kwaherini sasa!
On another note, we finished up Swahili class and have an exam on Monday morning. No one is thrilled about taking the exam but at least it will mean we are (somewhat) proficient enough in Swahili to concentrate on what we are all here for - coastal ecology and natural resource management.
We've been studying so much that we jumped at the opportunity to spend our first free day in quite some time relaxing on the beach. About half ot the SITers took a boti out to a coral reef about a 45 minute boat ride out of Stone Town to snorkel, and then went on to a sand bar to have a picnic, swim, and hang out. It was the most wonderful day!
We probably looked like freaks to everyone else there, but we had a lot of fun acting like 12 year olds building sand castles, playing games, jumping around (or trying to...see picture fail), and digging Becky's host brother into a big hole.
Now - time to study! Ninatumaini exami ni rahisi!
Kwaherini sasa!
Monday, September 13, 2010
Changuu
Yesterday we took a short trip to visit Changuu Island (also called Prison Island - it has ruins of an old prison that was never actually used as such, but during the 1900s was used as a quarantine station for all of East Africa) to see the giant tortoise sanctuary and do some snorkeling. It has unfortunately become privatized and thus full of an unreasonable number of Italian tourists, but seeing the tortoises was amazing and the snorkeling was great.
We got there right at tortoise lunchtime so we got to feed them some yummy leaves. They must work up an appetite carrying around 400 pounds all day!
It was also Becky's 21st birthday yesterday, so I of course had to buy her a celebratory beer at lunchtime.
Baadaye!
We got there right at tortoise lunchtime so we got to feed them some yummy leaves. They must work up an appetite carrying around 400 pounds all day!
It was also Becky's 21st birthday yesterday, so I of course had to buy her a celebratory beer at lunchtime.
Baadaye!
Sunday, September 12, 2010
Eid al Fitr
Eid al Fitr mumbarak to everyone - Ramadan has finally passed and now there are 4 days of celebration (Sept. 10-13). Everyone had different expectations of what it would be like and I think we were all a little surprised by our experiences. From what we can see, it is a holiday that takes many forms: from little kids trick or treating for money and toys on the streets to crazy carnivalesque venue in the town center to music and dancing all night and all sorts of family coming from everywhere. The best part is that everyone dresses up in their best clothes - whether it is an 80s prom dress or anything with rhinestones, glitter, sequins or rainbow satin. It was an exhausting two days off but now we are back to school and some sort of a routine.
Almost all of the SIT girls got henna for Eid, which is customary for Swahili women. It is so beautiful to see all of the intricately designed henna tattoos on girls and women of all ages.
Over the past week we have been continuing our studies in both Swahili and coastal ecology. We took a field trip up north to Matemwe and visited a seaweed farm, a common livelihood for many women in rural Zanzibar. The trade, however, can have damaging effects on the vitality of the tidal habitats if it is overdone or done improperly.
We have also had some time to explore Stone Town a little more. It has been wonderful to walk through the winding alleys and begin recognizing landmarks or street signs or even faces.
More to come soon, promise. Kwaherini!
Brooke
Almost all of the SIT girls got henna for Eid, which is customary for Swahili women. It is so beautiful to see all of the intricately designed henna tattoos on girls and women of all ages.
Over the past week we have been continuing our studies in both Swahili and coastal ecology. We took a field trip up north to Matemwe and visited a seaweed farm, a common livelihood for many women in rural Zanzibar. The trade, however, can have damaging effects on the vitality of the tidal habitats if it is overdone or done improperly.
We have also had some time to explore Stone Town a little more. It has been wonderful to walk through the winding alleys and begin recognizing landmarks or street signs or even faces.
More to come soon, promise. Kwaherini!
Brooke
Sunday, September 5, 2010
Familia
On Saturday afternoon, we moved in with our homestay families, who all live within a walking distance of each other and of the SIT office.
The first couple days of homestays are notoriously awkward and uncomfortable, as most of us are not well-versed in Muslim culture and customs. It can be hard to know that something as simple as eating food with your left hand can be considered quite offensive by Muslims. Fortunately, we have all been placed with wonderful families who understand that we are going to make these kinds of slip-ups (although I haven't heard of anyone doing anything too terrible yet).
My family is fairly small - I have a father, Othman, who restores beautiful antique furniture; a mother, Aisha; a 15 year old brother, Omar, who is still in school and is also studying religion; an 8 year old sister, Shaheen, who loves to paint, and a 3 year old brother, Azad, who just giggles and runs around like a crazy person. They are all very welcoming and it has been so interesting to see inside the life of a typical family here.
Since it is Ramadan, almost everyone on Zanzibar is fasting (with the exception of young children, the sick, and the elderly). My whole family is fasting, and so I decided to try to fast until Eid, which comes in a little under a week. I must admit, after day one I have no clue how people go for a month without eating or drinking during the day - I'm letting myself cheat and drink water so that I don't die over here (don't worry, mom).
In other news, we have started our coastal ecology lectures at the nearby Institute of Marine Sciences, a branch of the University of Dar es Salaam. We have already learned a great deal about the artisanal fisheries and other coastal trades that are common here on Zanzibar, and their effect on the local environment.
More to come soon! Kwaherini familia na rafiki!
Brooke & Co.
The first couple days of homestays are notoriously awkward and uncomfortable, as most of us are not well-versed in Muslim culture and customs. It can be hard to know that something as simple as eating food with your left hand can be considered quite offensive by Muslims. Fortunately, we have all been placed with wonderful families who understand that we are going to make these kinds of slip-ups (although I haven't heard of anyone doing anything too terrible yet).
My family is fairly small - I have a father, Othman, who restores beautiful antique furniture; a mother, Aisha; a 15 year old brother, Omar, who is still in school and is also studying religion; an 8 year old sister, Shaheen, who loves to paint, and a 3 year old brother, Azad, who just giggles and runs around like a crazy person. They are all very welcoming and it has been so interesting to see inside the life of a typical family here.
Since it is Ramadan, almost everyone on Zanzibar is fasting (with the exception of young children, the sick, and the elderly). My whole family is fasting, and so I decided to try to fast until Eid, which comes in a little under a week. I must admit, after day one I have no clue how people go for a month without eating or drinking during the day - I'm letting myself cheat and drink water so that I don't die over here (don't worry, mom).
In other news, we have started our coastal ecology lectures at the nearby Institute of Marine Sciences, a branch of the University of Dar es Salaam. We have already learned a great deal about the artisanal fisheries and other coastal trades that are common here on Zanzibar, and their effect on the local environment.
More to come soon! Kwaherini familia na rafiki!
Brooke & Co.
Saturday, September 4, 2010
Paje
After our first three nights in Stone Town, we packed up and headed to the beautiful village of Paje on the eastern coast of Zanzibar. There, we continued our orientation with intensive Swahili lessons (4 hours a day!) and lectures on Zanzibari culture, etc.
On the way to Paje we stopped at a reptile conservation center (see above) and learned about all of the endemic snakes and turtles and tortoises of Zanzibar and the threats they face.
In Paje, we stayed for three nights in a guest house right on the beach. The water was crystal clear and morning swims (and afternoon and evening) were a necessity. Unlike most tourist beaches, Paje's beaches were frequented by the locals - seaweed farming is a common occupation for Zanzibari women, as well as octopus hunting. Children also come to the beach, searching for seashells to bring back to their mothers for dinner.
Though dogs are not revered in Muslim culture, rather considered evil, our guest house was home to three puppies who were fed by the owner each day. We were all very excited to have some dogs in our life after just a week...I don't know what four months is going to do to us.
On the way home we visited a very cool butterfly conservation center. The center paid local farmers to harvest butterfly pupa, and the center then exported some to clients worldwide and kept the rest in their butterfly garden. Having the farmers convert from regular crops to butterfly harvesting is beneficial because the butterflies can only lay their eggs on endemic plants, which increases biodiversity and discourages monoculture. Really interesting place!
We move in to our homestays this afternoon, so it's time to rest up and prepare for that. Talk to you all soon!
Brooke and Becky
On the way to Paje we stopped at a reptile conservation center (see above) and learned about all of the endemic snakes and turtles and tortoises of Zanzibar and the threats they face.
In Paje, we stayed for three nights in a guest house right on the beach. The water was crystal clear and morning swims (and afternoon and evening) were a necessity. Unlike most tourist beaches, Paje's beaches were frequented by the locals - seaweed farming is a common occupation for Zanzibari women, as well as octopus hunting. Children also come to the beach, searching for seashells to bring back to their mothers for dinner.
Though dogs are not revered in Muslim culture, rather considered evil, our guest house was home to three puppies who were fed by the owner each day. We were all very excited to have some dogs in our life after just a week...I don't know what four months is going to do to us.
On the way home we visited a very cool butterfly conservation center. The center paid local farmers to harvest butterfly pupa, and the center then exported some to clients worldwide and kept the rest in their butterfly garden. Having the farmers convert from regular crops to butterfly harvesting is beneficial because the butterflies can only lay their eggs on endemic plants, which increases biodiversity and discourages monoculture. Really interesting place!
We move in to our homestays this afternoon, so it's time to rest up and prepare for that. Talk to you all soon!
Brooke and Becky
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